The Kepler Track

We just returned from the Kepler Great Walk Track. The track was advertised as a gorgeous 4 day, 3 night walk through Fiordland National Park. It rose from the forest floor up to 2600 feet and promised impressive alpine views of the valleys, lakes, and fiords below. We certainly saw the beautiful forest, and got our share of amazing views, but we also got the rough side of Fiordland. What the guidebooks, brochures, and pamphlets do not tell you is that it rains on and off throughout the entire year, and that the alpine crossing will hit you with incredibly strong winds.

On the day our trek began we awoke to a downpour of rain. We took our time eating breakfast and packing our bags in the vein hope that maybe the storm would pass. It did not. The first day of the trek is supposed to take 6 hours and cover about 10 miles. It also involves a steep 2400 foot climb through the forest and past the bush line. Once the bush line is cleared you must walk unprotected along the mountaintop for approximately 2 miles before you reach the Luxemore Hut, our first stop of the trek. (We did not know any of this before hand)

We stomped our way through the forest, doing our best to bypass the mud and puddles that blocked much of the path. Within half an hour our clothes were soaked through and we knew it would be a long day on the trail. We continued up the ridge at a steady pace and took a slight comfort in the fact that the dense trees blocked most of the wind and some of the rain. Things got more difficult to say the least as we left the covered forest and emerged above the bush line. We had just climbed over 2000 feet, and we were wet and tired. Taking a break was not an option though because the wind that met us along the ridgeline chilled us to the bone. We marched on. The wind swept across the top of the mountain and pelted us in the face with strong gusts and a constant downpour of rain falling parallel to the ground, and consequently straight into our face. We would later learn from the hut warden that there was a constant wind of 35 mph, and gusts ranging from 45-50mph, certainly not hurricane strength, but enough to make an already wet and cold body, even colder. We covered the last two miles in only 30 minutes because the conditions were so horrible that nearly jogging seemed like the only option if we were to avoid getting hypothermia. When we took the final turn and finally saw the Luxemore Ridge Hut sitting on the hill, an immense sense of relief poured out. (There are no pictures to document this horrible day which is probably a good thing)

It took awhile to warm up, but with a fresh change of clothes and strong wood fire emitting heat throughout the hut, eventually we once again felt warm. The Luxemore is famous for its views, but with the thick clouds and rain we didn’t even catch a glimpse of valley and fiord below until 7pm when the clouds finally stopped dumping rain and gave use some viewing room. Before we went to bed the hut warden informed us the weather was in all likelihood going to be worse the following day….

We went to bed worried and awoke anxious. The second day of the Kepler Track continues along the ridge and mountaintop for several miles, and can take up to 3 hours. It then descends all the way down, back into more protected forest and on to the next hut, Iris Burn. It would have been an utter disaster if the wind and rain returned. We would have had to walk for three hours unprotected by trees or shelter. Those hours would be spent in strong winds and heavy rains and would leave us even more miserable than the day before. This time however, even when we got to the forest, we would still have had to walk wet and cold for 2 hours before we could reach the hut. This however, did not happen, the warden’s weather prediction was incorrect, and luck was on our side. Apparently it is typical to have wind so high that people must go on all fours to not get blown off the ridge. They had build two shelters on the ridge so that people could be safe in these common conditions. They even recommend you pack rope so that you can tie yourselves together for safety- they do not close the mountain unless winds get as high as 100MPH! (again, we had no idea)

We left Luxemore at 9am and climbed the hill with a dark and impending cloud cover surrounding the mountain. Suddenly, the clouds dispersed and some sun crept through. We gazed down astonished at the forest and water below, we could not believe how far we could see, and how high we had climbed. The whole day would continue in this way. Some clouds would roll through, but just as quickly as they came, they would disappear and we would be left gaping at a new mountain ridge, lake, ridge line, or waterfall. The second day was certainly a long hike, (we had to descend 2000 feet on 93 switchbacks, not fun for our knees) but it was magnificent. The alpine scenery was impressive and the forest we walked down through was covered in dark green moss and ferns. When we arrived at the Iris Burn Hut we found it located on the valley floor with a lush meadow stretching out in front of it. Kyle went for a quick dip in the icy cold river that flowed by (he claims it revitalizes the body, and also believes New Zealand water may in fact have healing powers). The rest of the day was spent sitting on the porch admiring the meadow and the steep peaks that rose above it. We could not believe how incredibly lucky we were to have had the opportunity to see the famous Kepler views. Prevailing through the first day was more than worth it. We met two men from Switzerland and spent the whole night discussing our countries. It is amazing how much you can learn from other cultures, not just about the basic differences, but also about perspective.

At 9:00pm we strapped up our hiking boots in search of the infamous kiwis. They are very rare to see and run from any white light so you cannot use a flashlight. We walked to a giant waterfall that was quite impressive but never once saw a kiwi (we did hear them which gave Olivia painful false hope). Walking in absolute pitch dark was more like an out of body experience than anything else. It is funny to feel how disoriented our bodies are without the help of sight. The dangerous and sometimes painful walk in the dark was made worth it when we saw glow-worms hanging from the moss. They are bright blue and do not seem real.

We had originally intended for Kepler to be a 4 day track. However, while at Iris Burn we realized that if we were to walk onto the next hut and spend the night, the following days hike out would only take about 2 hours. We decided to forgo staying at the final hut and finish the hike in three days. After the best night sleep we have had in a hut (There was no one in our bunkroom, so no snoring or extra rustling around), we set off at 830 am to finish the Kepler Track. Once again we were lucky and got no rainfall. The importance of no rain cannot be stressed enough. The walk is incredibly unenjoyable if rain is keeping you wet, not to mention the fact that if you want to stop you only get colder and can never take a picture without water covering the lens. The last day of Kepler was by far the easiest. Although we had to go the longest distance km wise (18 km), the track was well graded and flat almost the entire time. We made our way down the valley and through a lush green forest, the amount of vibrant green here has not ceased to amaze us. We stopped at the hut we were supposed to spend the night at for lunch (the hut was on a lake and Kyle took this as another opportunity for an ice swim), and then continued on to the end of the track.

Kepler was amazing. Fiordland is gorgeous. And if any of you ever come to New Zealand, just know that if you come this far south you better have your rain gear. We were certainly bitter about the first day being so terrible, but the 2^nd and 3^rd were so incredible that we have chosen to forgive Fiordland’s weather. (For anyone keeping track at home, it has rained for at least some part of every single day of our trip) Tomorrow we will take a drive up to Milford Sound, perhaps one of the most well known areas in New Zealand. It is home to the Milford Great Walk Track, and we regret that we will not be able to do it. Milford is a bit of a pilgrimage for New Zealanders and many travelers, and as such it is completely booked through April. (You have to book a year in advance) We will have to take the more touristy approach and simply jump on a 3 hour cruise of the Sound (After about 60 miles of walking over the past two weeks the cruise is sounding quite nice!). After that we will drive to Queenstown and hopefully do a little bit of bungee jumping and sight seeing before we head north to our next back packing adventure in either the Abel Tasman National Park or Nelson Lakes National Park. After the 3 days of walking the bottle of wine we had while doing this post feels well deserved!

Just a taste of the puddles we were dealing with the first day

View we got on the second day when clouds finally cleared around Luxemore Hut

View along the ridge line above Luxemore Hut

Getting to know our most recent bird friend on the track

SUN!!!!!!

Rain runoff was flowing off the hill from the day before

Enjoying the sun

Epic

Taking a break on the bridge over the ragin' river

Trecking along

All this water was from the rain we dealt with on our first day

The view from the porch at Iris Burn Hut at the end of our second day

Fresh out of the very chilly Iris Burn River

Ferns for days

Reminiscent of the Wood River in Idaho?